I love suits. I don’t have very many but my collection is growing. I James Bond is currently my favourite suit guy second only to Barney Stinson who believes suiting up is a way of life. Following International Suit Up Day coming up on the 13th of August, I decided to do some research on the net about choosing a suit. Choosing a suit isn’t as straight forward as you might think. There are several things to take into consideration, body size/shape, fabric, suit style etc. Hope fully this post will give you a clearer idea on what to do when trying to get a suit.

Step 1

Choose a jacket style. The two-button, single-breasted jacket is a popular style, but three- or four-button jackets are also available. Keep in mind that fashions change for men’s clothing, just as they do for women’s. Only thin men should wear formal double-breasted jackets, which add bulk to the figure. These should be kept buttoned at all times, as the jacket hangs awkwardly otherwise.

Here are some examples of style combos.

Suit, shirt, and shoes by Dior Homme. Tie by John Varvatos.

THE NEW CLASSIC
HOW TO WEAR IT: The rules for wearing the most infallible suit since Gregory Peck’s gray flannel one are few but rigid: The jacket and pants must be cut slim. The shirt must be white, the tie black, and the shoes unadorned and shiny.

WHAT TO AVOID: Minimalism is paramount. Skip the cuff links, pocket square, and anything in a color or pattern. And reserve the suit for evening hours.
Suit, shirt, and shoes by Dior Homme. Tie by John Varvatos.

Suit, shirt, and tie by Bottega Veneta. Sneakers by Adidas.

Justin Timberlake Sporting a 3 Peice

THE THREE-PIECE
HOW TO WEAR IT: The new three-piece suit is nothing like the ones from the days of pocket watches—or even the one Tom Wolfe wears. If you’re over 40, you probably shouldn’t attempt it. Otherwise, choose a light-colored one with pants in a roomy cut and wear it with pristine sneakers.

WHAT TO AVOID: The suit is the statement. Skip bursts of color, bold hardware—cuff links, if necessary, should be subtle—and hair product.

Suit, shirt, and tie by Bottega Veneta. Sneakers by Adidas.

Suit and shirt by Gucci. Shoes by Dolce & Gabbana. Watch by Montblanc.

ALL BLACK
HOW TO WEAR IT: If you don’t think your build can handle a skinny silhouette, wear a classic two-button. Keep your shirt black and the lapel peaked, but whether to wear a matching tie is your call.

WHAT TO AVOID: Steer clear of boxy jackets and baggy pants—not to mention flashy jewelry and costumey hats. You’re not an NBA draftee.

Suit and shirt by Gucci. Shoes by Dolce & Gabbana. Watch by Montblanc.

Suit by Jil Sander. Sweater by Paul Smith. T-shirt by James Perse. Shoes by Giorgio Armani.

CASUAL
HOW TO WEAR IT: You can’t get away with swearing off suits altogether, but you can make adjustments. If peak lapels and Windsor knots aren’t your style, bridge the gap with a navy suit in high-grade cotton. Wear it with a thin crewneck sweater, or a collared shirt and no tie, and brown shoes—either suede or distressed, not shiny.

WHAT TO AVOID: The rules might be more flexible here, but that doesn’t excuse sloppiness. Tuck your shirt in and lose the Chucks.

Suit by Jil Sander. Sweater by Paul Smith. T-shirt by James Perse. Shoes by Giorgio Armani.

Suit, shirt, and tie by Tom Ford. Pocket square by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Watch by Patek Philippe. Shoes by Giorgio Armani.

DOUBLE-BREASTED PINSTRIPE
HOW TO WEAR IT: If you’re over 30 and comfortable with the trappings of success, you can wear a double-breasted pinstripe suit. Have it custom-made with snug shoulders, a sharply tailored waist, and tapered legs. Your watch and shoes should be top-quality, and your grooming should suggest that you’re the kind of guy who gets manicures.

WHAT TO AVOID: Wear a fat tie—never skinny—and ditch any hardware that isn’t either silver or platinum. And go easy on the hair gel.
Suit, shirt, and tie by Tom Ford. Pocket square by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Watch by Patek Philippe. Shoes by Giorgio Armani.

Step 2

Select a fabric color and pattern. If you opt for a patterned fabric, check to see that patterns line up at shoulder and lapel seams.

Step 3

Choose a suit fabric. High-quality worsted wool is the most seasonally versatile. Cotton and linen are good for summer wear. Avoid blends that are made with too much polyester, as they don’t breathe well and may look cheap.

Step 4

Crumple the fabric to make sure it bounces back instead of wrinkling, unless you’ve chosen a fabric that’s meant to wrinkle, such as linen.

Step 5

Select a pants style. Pleats make pants dressy and provide room for movement, while flat-front pants are slimming. Cuffed legs are formal, add weight to the suit and can make the leg seem shorter; uncuffed pants elongate the leg and are more informal.

Step 6

Test the jacket for fit. Make sure the collar lies flat against the back of your neck and shows a 1/4-inch rim of shirt collar. Shoulders should be lightly padded and neither too boxy nor too sloped. Sleeves should reveal 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff and fall 5 inches above the tip of your thumb.

Step 7

Button the jacket and sit down to verify that it is comfortable and doesn’t bunch up.

Step 8

Make sure the pants sit on the waist, not hips, and drape over and break slightly at the tops of your shoes. Check that your socks aren’t visible when you walk.

Choose a Style to suit Your Body Type

The Short Man

Avoid loud patterns

For vertically challenged guys, the choice of fabrics is wide open, while the option for loudpatterns is not. The print of an overly bold pattern screams for attention (this is not good for you). Wearing a loud pattern, especially in a suit, will only draw attention to your diminutive frame. Lest you want to be perceived as having a Napoleon complex, choose quieter options that are erudite and subdued.

Rely on vertical stripes

For short men, the next best thing to a shoe with a higher sole is a suit with vertical stripes. As stripes run top to bottom, they tend to draw the eye upward. Plus, they also lengthen your frame by elongating the look of the suit. Both of these traits make vertical stripes ideal and advantageous for shorter men; they give them the illusion of appearing taller than they really are.

Make it one button or two

Should you be on the shorter side, let your jacket have either one or two buttons, depending on how fast you want your look to be. One-button jackets are modish, while two buttons are today’s traditional bread-and-butter style. Whichever option you choose, keep in mind that fewer buttons neutralize the proportions of your look.

Go for double vents

Small guys, the double-vent jacket was created with you in mind. The dual slits (or vents) along the side emphasize the outside lines of the body; in doing so, they establish an attractive, longer silhouette that complements and lengthens your frame. A double-vent jacket is not only the appropriate look for short guys, but also the stylish option for an accomplished sense of style.

Buy pants with a low rise

When it comes to the pant, look for a low rise. The rise is the vertical distance from the waist to the crotch; low-rise pants stretch out the torso, making you seem taller. They dramatize the proportions of your frame to look sleeker and longer. In fact, the lower the rise of the pants, the longer the body looks.

The Bulky Man

Wear lightweight fabrics

A man with a fuller frame, be it from added time at the gym or the buffet, should find a fitted suit that’s slenderizing. Thankfully, given that it’s a slimmer cut, you’re automatically behind the eight ball. From the get-go, only focus on models made from lightweight fabrics; suits built from bulkier textiles will only add weight, compounding the problem. Let soft, worsted wools be your guide.

Use dark colors

While light colors make the body seem fuller, dark colors have the opposite effect. As these darker colors are slimming, they will do wonders to lighten the appearance of your frame, making you seem lighter on your feet. As for specific colors, choices like black and dark navy are as complementary as they are classy.

Make it solids or vertical stripes

For guys with extra meat on their bones, solids work best to create a sleek, slender visual. While loud patterns will definitely work against you, there are still options for finding a suit with added detailing. Since vertical stripes elongate the frame, they are both appropriate and chic. Big guys can also choose tiny, innocuous patterns for a bolder look, but only if they proceed with caution.

Take two on the jacket

Added cushion on the torso can mean a disproportionate look in the jacket. To ensure the best-looking fit in the coat, remember that two buttons are optimal. The two-button jacket is now the norm and designed to work for all body types. As an industry standard, it won’t draw attention to your bulky frame, like the modish impact of a one-button jacket or the slimming effect of a three-button piece.

Stay single on the vent

While it’s doubles on the buttons, bulky guys must keep the inverse in mind on the vent; specifically, avoid double-vented jackets. Vents, which are the slits at the back of the jacket, allow more movement. They also attract the eye, so huskier guys may not want to accentuate their backside. Instead, go for a single-vent jacket, which will give you the extra room you need minus the extra attention.

The Tall Skinny Man

Add weight with heavier fabrics

On a tall, skinny guy, lightweight fabrics will hang and make you look all the more frail. Opting for heavier wools that hold their form is the smart decision; suits constructed from this type of fabric will give you much-needed proportion and the appearance of additional weight. Ask the salesmen for tweed or a heavier weight worsted wool.

Stay with lighter colors

While the fabric should be heavy, the color should be light. Lighter colors, thanks to their visual powers, make things appear more bulky (in this case, you). What’s more, since vertical stripes elongate and dark colors slim, either will serve only make you look taller and skinner. Choose a suit that’s a lighter color — such as gray — and that has no vertical stripes.

Own a three-button jacket

Long and lanky? Then you have the dubious distinction necessary to wear a three-button jacket. Since three buttons create height and length, tall guys, with their longer torsos, can pull this look off successfully. While bulky and short guys would be advised to stick to two-button jackets, tall and skinny guys are eligible for this modish feature (only button the top two buttons, though).

Err on the side of the single vent

With no junk in the truck, tall, skinny men have two options for the vent: 1) no vent; or 2) a single vent. Since jacket vents allow movement and create visual appeal, they give features to the jacket that skinny fellows don’t necessarily need. Sticking with a single-vent or ventless jacket produces a modest, fuller look in the rear.

Buy pants with a regular rise

Tall guys have long legs, so their pants shouldn’t make them seem any taller. The best way to prevent seeming any taller than you are is to ensure the pants have a longer rise; the rise of the pants, which is the distance from the waistband to the crotch, helps establish the proportions between the body and the legs. That’s why a regular rise will bring balance and symmetry to your already long legs and torso.

I hope these helped

Sources:
[ http://ehowto.com ]

[ http://askmen.com ]

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